Postcard from Phnom Penh – Ghosts

Postcard from Phnom Penh – Ghosts

There’s a ghostly underlay to Phnom Penh, a city beneath the city today. That city is empty. When the Khmer Rouge defeated the US-backed Lon Nol regime in 1975 and took power, their first act was to completely evacuate the capital. The city’s inhabitants...
Postcard from Hanoi – Working Landscapes

Postcard from Hanoi – Working Landscapes

On our first weekend in Hanoi we drove to Tam Coc, an area south of the city dominated by enormous limestone karsts. The land they spring from is almost entirely flat, and this only makes them more dramatic; there’s no sense of gradual rise, of hills building up...
Postcard from Hanoi – Street Life

Postcard from Hanoi – Street Life

The streets in Hanoi are not only thoroughfares but also the place where much of the city’s living is done. Much of their noise and activity can be attributed to this: very little seems to happen in private. One of our first challenges when we arrived was to...
Postcard from Hanoi – Ancestors

Postcard from Hanoi – Ancestors

One of the surprising things about Hanoi is how much it reminds me of Buenos Aires. There’s a similar palette – the buildings are painted in pale blues, yellows, pinks and greens. Life on the street is similarly crowded; in the Old Quarter especially, the narrow...